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Summary:

Given the issues with FFR tubular lower control arms and the fact that I had a brand new set of Ford Racing lower control arms,  I decided on the following front end setup:

bulletPole Position adjustable upper control arms
bulletStainless slot fillers
bulletFord Racing lower control arms
bulletFlaming River 15-1 manual rack with Breeze offset bushings
bulletFlaming River stainless universal shaft
bulletBreeze intermediate double-D steering shaft + new upper steering column
bullet450 lb coil-over Pro shocks (should be perfect for my small block)
bulletPolished aluminum f-panels

Driver Side:   [Product Image][Product Image]A few shots before the rotors and calipers were installed.   Note:   see brake section.  I mistakenly installed the R.H. Caliper on L.H. side and visa-versa ....and they fit..... but I could not get the air out of the lines.   Seems simple now but I spent way too many hours working on this issue.  

Suspension with Rotors:

[Product Image][Product Image]Shown here is my new 10.5" Powerslot 5-lug cross-drilled rotor.... a negative to putting a mirror finish on aluminum is the amount of flash that is reflected when poor photographers like me take pictures.

With Steering Rack and Rotors: [Product Image]Flaming River 15-1 manual steering rack. I used offset bushings to raise the rack centerline and shimmed the rack as far as possible towards the rear of the car. For an added touch I primed and urethaned the rack & Flaming River universal joint.  To finish it off I went with a Breeze upper and lower steering shaft. 

 

Suspension before rack[Product Image]:   

[Product Image]Drivers Side thread exposure:  Note the length of thread on the drivers side and then compare to the passenger side. Clearly it is very, very roughly adjusted but this is typical of the difference once installed. I will wait until the car is at ride height to torque the tie rod end to spindle. Similarly jam nut will be tightened later.

 

            

[Product Image]Passenger Side thread exposure:    Note the length of thread on the passenger side and then compare to the drivers side. Clearly it is very, very roughly adjusted but this is typical of the difference once installed. I will wait until the car is at ride height to torque the tie rod end to spindle. Similarly jam nut will be tightened later.      

[Product Image]Clearance: 

As they say... it is what it is. I would prefer a little more clearance but this should work fine.

[Product Image]Dad (Omer) and me:  Not getting much done .......but we did have some fun!

[Product Image]Dad (Omer) and me:  With a little encouragement from Dad, we got the front suspension together

 

Tips: 

1) Torque:  In the absence of a torque spec use the following general guideline.

bullet1/2" diameter bolts:  70-80 lbs/in2
bullet5/8" diameter bolts:  85-95 lbs/in2

2) Lower Control Arm to frame :  Do not torque until the car is at ride height.     

3) Tie-rod to spindle:  Do not torque until the car is at ride height and closely aligned.     

4) Grease Nipples:   If at all possible orient towards the front of the car.....to make greasing easier.    

 

 
I can be reached directly at the Legacy Garage at:  klegacy@comcast.net (SR71 on FFCobra.com)
Last modified: April 13, 2008